![]() Not pretty, but will accomplish the task. Further, wrap with red electrical tape for good measure. Then cover with heat shrink tubing that is in my garage inventory to provide the insulation. Rather than bother with proper fuse holders, I will just do a quick solder of the wires to each fuse's metal ends. Unlike the old days, "Wonder of Wonders" that today's Radio Shack has much of anything for the DIY'er!. A 4-pack of 0.50 slow-blow amp glass fuses are available at my local Radio Shack for only a few $'s. We don't ever want fire temp heat or sparks on a boat. But even with say a 22g wire (which if shorted might "self fuse" by default when it probably would melt apart pretty quick on it's own), I accept the comments that a short along it's length needs to be protected against. The amp draw to the meter really is negligible. Just to confirm that I (the OP) am following the responses.Īs usual, some different takes. The instruction sheet that came with the monitor doesn't indicate installation of any fuses at all. Other than right behind the battery monitor, each positive wire will be well separated from any negative contact possibility. The single negative wire with thick insulation can be robust in comparison - say 14-16 gauge. So I am thinking only say 18-22 gauge wire will be sufficient. The third wire will be about eight feet in length from the emergency reserve battery which is normally isolated from the 12V system by it's own dedicated high-amp switch.Ĭonsidering that the ProMariner monitor will draw only milli-amps, voltage drop over wire distance shouldn't be much of an issue. Two of the +12V wires will only be about one foot in length between my 1/2/Both switch and where the monitor will be mounted. #Analog 12v battery meter installQuestion: Do I need to install <1amp fuses for each of the three wires that will lead into the monitor? I will be "monitoring" three 12V batteries. :Liar: Nonetheless I want to install it on my plastic classic boat. Just a crude measurement of battery state at best. Photo attached.Īll it really does is show the voltage for each of up to four batteries on the meter as the selector switch is rotated. That is because every LED consumes about 15mA and, when operating in dot-mode, only one LED will be turned on, at any possible voltage value.A new-in-box vintage ProMariner analog battery monitor recently came into my possession. Operating on dot-mode has the advantage of lower current consumption. To operate in dot-mode, just leave the Mode Select pin (pin 9) open circuit. The circuit was initially designed to operate in bar-graph mode. In contrary, increasing the value of R4 will raise the maximum. Reducing the value of R6, will lower the value of the minimum. If you wish to change the values of the reference minimum and maximum, you can simply act on the values of R6 and R4. In principle, for each LED diode that will be turned off, there will be a 0.5 volts (in practice only 0.45 volts) reduction in voltage. LD1 will turned off, when battery's voltage drops below 10 volts. In the proposed circuit, the resistors values have been calculated to ensure that the last LED (LD10) will light up when the voltage reaches approximately 14.5 volts. Electronic schematic of the 12V Battery Level Indicator It contains its own adjustable reference and accurate 10-step voltage divider. The LM3914 is a monolithic integrated circuit that senses analog voltage levels and drives 10 LEDs, providing a linear analog display. The 12V battery level indicator consists from only one LM3914 integrated circuit (see IC1) and 10 LEDs, connected on IC's outputs. Since most cars are not equipped with such an accessory, it could be quite useful. The specific circuit is a voltage indicator, which displays the status of the battery connected to its positive terminal. We would like to suggest a circuit, which we think will be especially appreciated by those being involved in DIY electronic accessories for motorcycles and cars. ![]()
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